The largest urban park in the world, GGNRA makes New York's Central Park look like a putting green, covering three counties along 28 miles of stunning, condo-free shoreline. Run by the National Park Service, the Recreation Area wraps around the northern and western edges of the city, and just about all of it is open to the public with no access fees. The Muni bus system provides transportation to the more popular sites, including Aquatic Park, Cliff House, Fort Mason, and Ocean Beach. For more information, contact the National Park Service (tel. 415/561-4700). For more detailed information on particular sites, see the "Outdoor Pursuits" section later in this chapter.

Here is a brief rundown of the salient features of the park's peninsula section, starting at the northern section and moving westward around the coastline:

Aquatic Park, adjacent to the Hyde Street Pier, has a small swimming beach, although it's not that appealing (and darned cold). Far more entertaining is a visit to the ship-shaped museum across the lawn that's part of the San Francisco Maritime National Historical Park.

Fort Mason Center, from Bay Street to the shoreline, consists of several buildings and piers used during World War II. Today they hold a variety of museums, theaters, and organizations, and Greens vegetarian restaurant , which affords views of the Golden Gate Bridge. For information about Fort Mason events, call tel. 415/441-5706. The park headquarters is also at Fort Mason.

Farther west along the bay at the northern end of Laguna Street is Marina Green, a favorite local spot for kite-flying, jogging, and walking along the Promenade. The St. Francis Yacht Club is also here.

Next comes the 3 1/2-mile paved Golden Gate Promenade, San Francisco's best and most scenic biking, jogging, and walking path. It runs along the shore past Crissy Field (be sure to stop and watch the gonzo windsurfers and admire the newly restored marshlands) and ends at Fort Point under the Golden Gate Bridge.

Fort Point (tel. 415/556-1693) was built in 1853 to protect the narrow entrance to the harbor. It was designed to house 500 soldiers manning 126 muzzle-loading cannons. By 1900, the fort's soldiers and obsolete guns had been removed, but the formidable brick edifice remains. Fort Point is open daily from 10am to 5pm, and guided tours and cannon demonstrations are given at the site once or twice daily, depending on the time of year.

Lincoln Boulevard sweeps around the western edge of the bay to Baker Beach, where the waves roll ashore -- a fine spot for sunbathing, walking, or fishing. Hikers can follow the Coastal Trail from Fort Point along this part of the coastline all the way to Lands End.

A short distance from Baker Beach, China Beach is a small cove where swimming is permitted. Changing rooms, showers, a sun deck, and restrooms are available.

A little farther around the coast is Lands End, looking out to Pyramid Rock. A lower and an upper trail offer hiking amid windswept cypresses and pines on the cliffs above the Pacific.

Still farther along the coast lie Point Lobos, the Sutro Baths, and Cliff House. Cliff House, which is currently undergoing renovations while still open to the public, has been serving refreshments to visitors since 1863 and providing views of Seal Rocks, home to a colony of sea lions and many marine birds. (Alas, my favorite attraction here, the Musée Mécanique, an arcade featuring antique games, has moved to temporary digs at Pier 45; call tel. 415/346-2000 or visit http://museemecanique.citysearch.com for details, as nobody yet knows where its permanent home will be.) Northeast of Cliff House, only traces of the Sutro Baths remain, since the swimming facility, a major summer attraction that could accommodate up to 24,000 people, burned down in 1966.

A little farther inland at the western end of California Street is Lincoln Park, which contains a golf course and the spectacular Palace of the Legion of Honor museum.

At the southern end of Ocean Beach, 4 miles down the coast, is another area of the park around Fort Funston, where there's an easy loop trail across the cliffs (ranger office tel. 415/239-2366). Here you can watch hang gliders take advantage of the high cliffs and strong winds.

Farther south along Route 280, Sweeney Ridge, accessible only by car, affords sweeping views of the coastline from the many trails that crisscross its 1,000 acres. From here the expedition led by Don Gaspar de Portolá first saw San Francisco Bay in 1769. It's in Pacifica; take Sneath Lane off Route 35 (Skyline Blvd.) in San Bruno.

The GGNRA extends into Marin County, where it encompasses the Marin Headlands, Muir Woods National Monument, and the Olema Valley behind the Point Reyes National Seashore. See chapter 11 for information on area highlights.